Listening History
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Petersham, Australia
[When pasta with salmon in cream sauce began to appear on Italian menus] Cooking began to be an aesthetic experience. Thirty years later, the salmon has been replaced by tuna (tartare, seared, with ginger), risotto is triumphant, the cream has disappeared, and every ingredient comes mysteriously supplied with its own geography...Thirty years later, it is impossible to eat and discuss some other subject. It is impossible to sit at a table without analysing, forkful by forkful, every flavour and ingredients...as if he experience will be incomprehensible and insipid without commentary. It is a triumph of meta-cuisine. Taste no longer affords pleasure on its own. Just as contemporary art exists only if someone talks about and interprets it, so cooking only lives, these days, in the comments of its consumers
Food has replaced fashion...The mouth has become our most important organ. It is a transformation in keeping with our era, which seems to be concerned mostly with channelling its own